“盗墓节”的前世今生:蔻蒂人开始变成石头

, — The of into for an in an of , . , by an mask. Skin .

印度德发南巴蒂南——在这个印度教的年度节日中,从跨性别女性向女神的转变,是在虔诚而凝重的气氛中进行的。笑容消失了,代之以无表情的面具。皮肤变成了石头。

As they to in the in a in the of Nadu, some of the into so deep it they have . The , over the past , are by Feit.

在印度南部泰米尔纳德邦的一个小渔村,人们在准备“盗墓节”( )的表演,一些舞者进入重度的出神状态,以至于看上去像是晕厥了。这些照片是由坎德丝·费特( Feit)在过去三年里拍摄的。

who to live as — also as , or , on the — are born male and have male .

蔻蒂在某些地区又称海吉拉、金纳或阿拉瓦尼,选择以这种方式生活的印度人的出生性别为男性,通常有男性情侣。

in the West, they a for an . Some live in with a of the of they to as “” and “.”

和西方的跨性别人士不同的是,她们脱离了保守的主流文化,加入了一种同样保守的亚文化。其中一些生活在有森严戒律的公社里,她们的领袖被称为“母亲”或“祖母”。

live with or head . Many as and are met with of , and sex.

还有一些跟父母住,或成为异性恋家庭的家长。有许多人在少年时期就表露了身份,并因此遭受多年的奚落、殴打和受迫性交。

But the , in or each year, are . Any of is , and the to the they . The is to the . —

但是,在每年2月或3月举行的节日期间,这些困扰会显得无比遥远。一切人类的表情都被消除,蔻蒂人开始变成她们膜拜的神灵的模样。凡人与神建立了连线。——

The were as the . They had not to or have sex for the of the 10-day . Men are not in the room for the , take in .

随着节日的临近印度女神之恋,蔻蒂表演者的表情肃穆起来。在为期十天的节日中,她们承诺不饮酒,免房事。男人不可进入为表演做准备的更衣室,准备工作在一片肃静中进行。

The into a room near the to , a that can take as long as two . By the time they , have a of — half-, half-.

表演者挤在寺庙附近的一个小房间里化妆,全过程耗时可达两个小时。完成后,她们的脸会被遮盖在一层色彩之下——成为半人半神。

For 10 days, the are with by the , who to see them any of . the town’s , the are into to give .

十天里,村民会对蔻蒂人毕恭毕敬,他们蜂拥前来观看她们的舞蹈,绝口不提她们的性别身份。蔻蒂人行走在小镇街道上,家家户户都会来请她们进门,求得她们的祝福。

, a , is a in this part of Nadu. When she a , rush to her side to have . She is one of the ones: is no that she will .

传统印度舞者卡薇亚·瓦什尼( )是泰米尔纳德邦这一带的名人。每次表演后穿过人群离开时,人们会涌上来拍照。她相对幸运:家人并不指望她结婚。

, left, put on her bra, as the two to .

莫佳娜(左)帮助那瓦莉穿上胸罩,两人正在准备表演。

As on the , can . Many gave the cold to a one year her name was the only one in the ’s , was seen as self-.

随着蔻蒂人在村里聚集,竞争也会激烈起来。有一年印度女神之恋,一个蔻蒂人遭到了其他人的冷落,因为只有她一个人的名字出现在了那年印发的节目单上,而这被认为是一种自我炒作。

, , is from her to soon. with her , she is to out what to do. the idea of or sex with a is to her, the of .

正在帮助另一位蔻蒂人的莫佳娜面临家人的巨大压力,要她尽快结婚。她正和自己的伴侣一起想办法。她没法想象自己和一个女人结婚或发生性关系,但通过婚姻获得家人的认可,可以给她一片清净。

At the end of the , over, the to life. Guru, here as the , is one of the in his : a day and of two, to a who in a .

节日之后,她们的风光也告一段落,蔻蒂人将回归平凡的生活。扮成女神安曼的耶哈达·古鲁( Guru)属于村里最穷的人之一:他在打散工,是两个孩子的父亲,跟一个在烘焙店打工的女人结了婚。

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